
Q&A Show #1
Season 16 Episode 5 | 27m 28sVideo has Closed Captions
Dr. Chris Cooper and his guests answer viewer questions.
This week on The Family Plot: Gardening in the Mid-South, UT Extension Agent Dr. Chris Cooper and his guests answer viewer questions about all sorts of gardening topics.
Problems playing video? | Closed Captioning Feedback
Problems playing video? | Closed Captioning Feedback
The Family Plot is a local public television program presented by WKNO
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Q&A Show #1
Season 16 Episode 5 | 27m 28sVideo has Closed Captions
This week on The Family Plot: Gardening in the Mid-South, UT Extension Agent Dr. Chris Cooper and his guests answer viewer questions about all sorts of gardening topics.
Problems playing video? | Closed Captioning Feedback
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Learn Moreabout PBS online sponsorship- Hi, thanks for joining us for The Family Plot: Gardening in the Mid-South.
I'm Chris Cooper.
Today, we have a whole bunch of spring gardening questions, from shrubs to lawns to organic gardening, and a few general gardening questions too.
It's the Q and A show next on The Family Plot: Gardening in the Mid-South.
- (female announcer) Production funding for The Family Plot: Gardening in the Mid-South is provided by the WKNO Production Fund, the WKNO Endowment Fund, and by viewers like you, thank you.
[upbeat country music] - Welcome to The Family Plot.
I'm Chris Cooper.
It's Spring, and many gardeners are getting the plants in the ground, hoping for beautiful flowers and a big harvest.
We thought we would gather some timely questions we have answered over the past few months, but have not had time to air.
Hopefully, these will help you out as you start another year in the garden.
Let's start with a few questions about fungus.
[upbeat country music] "How would I treat Sclerotinia fungus in my vegetable garden?"
And this is Dan from Clarkton, Missouri.
He wonders if he should spray fungicide on the ground.
All right, and this is Sclerotinia fungus, which is also called white mold.
- Yeah.
- Right.
So, what do you think about that?
- Yeah, well, he's having that problem, probably because things are too wet.
So, we gotta dry things up, maybe plant up, and it can last in the soil for up to three years.
- Oh my goodness.
- Now, I mean, I don't know if actually spraying the soil is gonna make much difference because it's the plants that are getting the disease.
And you'd have to preventative spray them.
You could do that on a program, but that's a lot of spraying.
Most importantly, rotate your crops.
- I agree.
- That, that, I have, I rotate in four-year sections.
I have tomatoes and corn in two different sections that I rotate around for four different years until it's back in the same spot.
And I think that will help out 'cause if the Sclero only lasts for three years in the ground, it's gonna help him, or get rid of some of that in his, the plants that are having the problems with it.
- Right, yeah.
- But, air circulation, like, don't overcrowd your garden.
I know we put three foot, we have bigger, big enough garden that we can put three-foot sections in them to keep things, air movement through the garden.
And so, that's, that's gonna be key is keeping the air moving through the garden.
- Right, you know it's an interesting question, crop rotation, I mean, we are talking about a vegetable garden, right.
So, crop rotation's gonna be so important.
You know me.
You know cultural practices, you know, do some research.
You know, look for some resistant varieties is something else I would consider, yeah, is the area poorly drained?
I mean, you know, fix the drainage problem.
Correct that drainage problem.
And practice good sanitation.
- Yes.
- Right, 'cause those fungus spores are gonna be there on that crop debris.
So, we gotta make sure we get that crop debris out of there, and that's gonna help.
- And don't put those diseased plants in your compost pile.
- Good point, right.
- Just, I mean, because that's gonna just keep it going.
- Right.
- And then, you just wanna break the cycle.
[upbeat country music] - "How do I stop white leaf fungus on turnip greens?"
And this is Jackie.
So, what do you think about that one, Mr. D?
- Well... - White leaf fungus.
- That, you know, I don't know, is that downy mildew, powdery mildew, white rust, yeah?
- You know, that's what I'm thinking.
- Yeah, yeah, I'd say downy, downy mildew... - That's exactly what, yeah.
- is what I would suspect.
- Definitely.
- You know... - Well, the first thing I would do is make sure that you're not watering at the wrong time.
You don't wanna water when, so that thee leaves stay wet, you know, too much.
So, that's the, you know, cultural things is what I would try first.
And then, if you continue to have a problem, there are fungicides that you can use, sulfur and some of the fixed copper that will help control that, but the main thing is try not to get, you know, keep the leaves wet.
You know, water I say in the morning when it has time to dry off rather than, don't water late in the afternoon.
- Right.
- And that will help a bunch.
I mean, what else?
Anything else?
- Well, clean up the plant debris, you know, because they can, overwinter during, and then, it's a good idea to rotate the cruciferous, you know, every three years because they can tend to carry over disease in the soil, so that can splash back up on and infect the plants.
And definitely don't go out there and pick 'em when the dew's on 'cause you're gonna scat-, you know, move the pathogens around in the moisture.
And let's see, there was something else.
Oh, no overhead sprinklers.
- Yeah, yeah, right.
- Like you say, you know, you don't need to keep the foliage wet, especially going into the night.
- Right.
- Right.
- You know, so, and then I like Chlorothalonil.
- Okay.
- You know, for powdered mildew, it's a real broad spectrum, and it's labeled for pretty much all vegetables, roses, things like that.
But, and yet, I like they way he worded it.
How do I stop it?
- Yeah, yeah, stop it.
- You can't stop it.
[Lelia laughing] You can prevent it and, and kinda keep the, slow the progression, you know.
- But, can't stop it.
- But yeah, can't really stop a disease once it gets started.
- It's just there, that's right.
- But, you can sorta control it and prevent it, yeah, somewhat.
- Somewhat, so there you have it, Jack.
We appreciate that question.
Yeah, I would also do some homework, maybe some resistant varieties out there.
- Yeah, yep, yep, certified clean seed and healthy transplants, you know, that kinda thing.
[upbeat country music] - "What vegetable are best for beginner gardeners?"
And this is Amy from Memphis, Tennessee.
So, what do you think about that one, Dr. Kelly?
- I work with school gardens.
- For beginners.
- Yeah, for beginners, and school gardens are kinda interesting because the teachers want things that they can, a short crop that they can grow, start in the fall when the kids come back to school or can do in the spring and have something going on before they leave, you know, in the middle of May or whenever they go.
So, it usually kinda tends to be those things that are producing quickly, like radishes is a real favorite, you know, carrots, lettuces, you know, and the different leaf greens.
Those are real fast, real quick satisfaction for the kids.
You know, just saying, they make their own salad, [Chris laughing] you know, from their greens, [Lelia coughing] from their lettuce.
And, of course, they can grow tomatoes.
You know, they can do some, some of the ones that are more, fruit quicker, you know.
The teacher would have to look at from the, you know, when they, from plant to harvest.
Oh, and there's so many tomato cultivars out there.
Some of them produce quicker than others.
They have the patio types.
But anyway, she could do a little research on that, but I'd say radishes, carrots, lettuce, tomatoes, any leafy green.
Those would be the simple, easy ones for little ones to have something quickly, you know.
- I would agree with that, yeah, 'cause he is trying to start a school garden.
- Yeah.
- Yeah.
- And it's kind of, you know, you can't grow, like, watermelon.
[everyone laughing] You can't, you can't grow sweet potatoes.
- Right.
[laughing] - Well, you stay away from the habaneros.
- Yeah, yeah, yeah, stay away from the hot peppers, yeah.
[everyone laughing] [upbeat country music] - "Can I grow vegetables "in a naturally organic and pesticide-free manner and get consistent results?"
And this is Michael from Connecticut.
He says he "gets mixed results each year."
So Peter, all right, you're from up that way.
- I am.
- Right, right.
- I grew up in Maine.
- You know a little bit about this, right?
So, so here's my thing.
Can you really get consistent results?
- Well, I'll just tell you, the way that we garden... - Okay.
- When I was growing up is we were organic 'til we couldn't.
- Okay, I like that, I like that.
- So, if we didn't have to spray, we didn't spray.
Now, one of the great advantages of the Northern areas that we don't have to worry about here, or we do have to worry about here, we don't have to worry about there is that since the season is short and the winters are cold, a lot of the funguses and the bugs that we have down here in the South aren't a problem up there or aren't as much of a problem up there.
- So, so jealous.
- Yeah, so, but the flip side is is that you have a really short growing season.
- Yeah, yeah, so... - So, can you do it and get consistent results?
Depends.
So, what you should do is you wanna make sure when you're doing organic growing that you make sure that the soil is as healthy and as rich as possible.
- Mm hm, that's good, yeah.
- Give your plants as much of a chance to succeed there - Agreed.
- As you can.
Once you get through that, there are certain insecticides that you can use that are organic.
So, you can, you know, selectively use them if you want to avoid using the harder, you know, industrial insecticides, I guess you could say.
- Yeah.
- Consistent results are hard though, even with all of that.
And it's just, a lot of it has to do with the variability of the weather in each growing season.
You know, if it's this certain way this year, maybe this plant does really well, but next year, it's gonna be different.
So, this other plant's gonna do really well.
And you really, if you go back in history and read people's accounts of, you know, how, how their crops did, you know, there are sone years they did really good and some years, they didn't do really good.
And they didn't, you know, this is pre-pesticides.
- Sure, sure, sure, I'm following you.
- And so, it's just kinda, you know, grow enough that if half of it fails, it'll still work.
- Yeah.
- And I, that's a terrible answer.
- Yeah.
- But... - But, it's reality.
- It's reality.
- It's reality.
- And then also, the other thing is learn what does very well consistently in your garden.
- Ah, that's a good point.
- And rely on that.
So, you know, for instance, in the Family Plot garden here, our peppers do really good every year.
Our tomatoes don't do so good.
And so, you know, if we kinda grow it for demonstration, but if we were growing it for production, then probably we'd lean towards peppers more than tomatoes.
- Sure.
- Yeah.
- Wow, okay, that's good, yeah, that's good.
Michael, he's from up that way.
- Yeah.
- Maine.
He knows about that, yeah.
Short growing season, but no pests and diseases.
- Or less.
- Or less.
- Yeah.
- Yeah, less.
Yeah, but the cold, ah.
[upbeat country music] "What are the advantages and disadvantages of using coffee grounds in a flower bed?"
And this is Chip from Hartford, Kentucky.
Dr. Kelly.
- Yeah.
- Let's start with you first on this one.
- Yeah, I'm a big coffee drinker, yeah.
- Advantages and disadvantages.
- Okay, I would say a pro would be, it does have some minute nutritional value, like 1 to 2% nitrogen, which is pretty minimal, but it's better than no percent.
- That's correct.
- Right, right.
- So, you get a little nutritive value and they say, now I don't know if this is actually real true or not, but if you fairly get a good layer of it, you can repel slugs and snails.
- I've heard that, okay.
- You know, that that can... - My wife swears that.
- Okay, well, there you go, we have a testimonial here.
We believe that now.
So, the thing, and when you dig it in, you know, to the soil, it improves soil structure.
- Okay.
- Because it is organic matter.
So, it's gonna improve soil structure.
Now the cons is, are, I guess 'cause there's more than one, that excessive use of it, let's say you were trying to germinate some seed and you use coffee grounds to cover the seed, it can inhibit or hinder germination... - Okay.
- In some species they say.
So anyway, that's something to think about.
So, and also, and I've done this.
- Okay.
[laughing] - I have done this, being the lazy gardener that I am.
I just dump all this stuff out around my... and you get a pile of it, and then mold, it starts molding.
- Oh, okay.
- So [laughing] so, so don't put it too thickly, you know, because, you know what?
When it dries out, it's gonna impede, you know, percolation of the water through, but then it also, if it stays damp, it's gonna start, those coffee grinds are gonna start molding.
And I think it's an old wives' tale that it can affect the pH because they say that, I mean, maybe if you took the coffee beans and just threw them out there, they're, the pH is, it's leeched out into the coffee.
So, you're drinking the pH.
The coffee grounds is more, the pH of actual coffee grounds is more like 6.8, which is neutral.
- Neutral, right.
- Yeah, it's neutral.
- Yes, neutral, so I know some people say that it does affect, but it would be very short term, and very minute, if it did, but... - Okay, wow.
- That's why it gives you heartburn when you drink coffee.
- Oh well, okay.
[laughing] [mouth sipping] - Get that sick burn, right?
- Yeah, so there are some pros and cons.
- Yep.
- I mean, any other that you may know of, Mr. D?
- No, I think the advantages outweigh the disadvantages.
- Yeah, I think... - That's what it sounds like.
- I think the best way to use coffee grounds as a soil amendment.
- Okay.
- You know, throw it in your compose.
Work it in.
- Work it in.
- Or work it in your soil, you know.
And that's a good way to use it, you know.
Unless you got snails and slugs and... - Yeah, unless you got that.
- Yeah, yeah.
[upbeat country music] "What kind of plant is this?"
And this is Mary from Tampa, Florida.
So Joellen, what kinda plant is that?
- A firebush.
- Oh, firebush, right.
It's beautiful, isn't it?
- Hamelia patens.
- Wow, look at her, Joseph.
- It is an evergreen shrub.
- Uh huh, all right.
- It likes Zones 8 through 11.
- Oh, tropical plant.
- And sun, it likes a lot of sun.
- So, full sun, so yeah.
Probably drought tolerant, heat tolerant, - It probably is, yeah.
- 'Cause it's a tropical plant, beautiful, tubular, you know, flowers, red, orange.
- I imagine hummingbirds and other birds like to... - I betcha they love 'em.
I betcha they do.
- Other pollinators.
- Wow, nice perennial, so yeah.
I would grow that.
- I would too.
- I would grow that.
It looks beautiful.
- It is.
[upbeat country music] - "What is this weed growing in my garden?
It has taken over."
And this is Sharon from Byhalia, Mississippi.
She says, "Two years ago, she sprayed Roundup, but last year," guess what?
"It came back more than before."
So, Joseph, what weed is that?
- Yeah, it's called groundcherry.
And it's in the Solanaceae family, the nightshade family.
And it will definitely come back.
It's very aggressive.
- Yep.
- My recommendation is to get in there with hand tools and dig as much of it out as you can.
Get rid of it.
Get as much of those roots out too, and then, as it starts coming back up, you can definitely hit it up with a glyphosate product, especially when it's young and tender and small.
- Yeah.
- It'll be more effective.
And if it's coming up in other areas where you don't wanna spray, you can go in there and just, we've used some glyphosate on a cloth, and just kinda touched it and got it on there.
- Yeah.
- In that way... - Yeah, that way you can protect those desirable plants.
- Yeah, and, and something, you know, to note about this plant is the unripe fruits and other parts of the plant are poisonous.
- Right, they're very toxic.
- Very toxic.
- Yeah, 'cause I usually, I've seen this weed before.
You usually see it in pastures, you know, side of the road and things like that.
So, yeah, you gotta be careful.
- Mm-hmm.
- Wear gloves.
- Yeah, wear gloves for sure.
- Yeah, definitely wear gloves.
- Deep tap root system this one has, so yeah, if you break it off, you know right at the soil surface, oh... - Yeah, yeah, so it's gonna be hard to get.
- You'll have more of it.
- Yeah, it's gonna be hard to get all of it out.
- Yeah, it's gonna be hard, yeah, so... - You're gonna have to keep fighting it.
- You're gonna have to fight it.
You'll have to keep weeding.
- Keep on top of it.
- It's best to dig 'em out when the soil is moist.
You know, that'll help you out a little bit.
- Yeah.
[upbeat country music] - "What causes fungus on tree trunks "like crape myrtles and maples?
How do I get rid of them?"
And this is Martha from Heidelberg, Mississippi.
So Peter, what do you think about that?
- Yeah, so the fungus is black sooty mold, and it is growing on honeydew, which means that there is another problem.
That's just a symptom.
- Right.
- So, you either have a scale or you have aphids.
So, probably on the crape myrtle, it's probably crape myrtle bark scale.
On the maples, it's probably aphids.
And so, what happens is both of those insects suck the sap out of the tree, out of the leaves or the branches, and then, when they're done processing it, they secrete a sticky, oh, it's sticky, but it's also, it's a sugary liquid.
- Right.
- And so that kind of gets, drops as a mist almost.
- Of honeydew.
- Honeydew, yep, on whatever's underneath it.
So, the most convenient thing is the branches and the trunk.
- Yeah, yeah.
- And so then, the sooty mold comes along and lands on that, and uses the sugar to grow.
And so, that's how you have that.
Now, how do you take care of it?
- Yeah.
- So, on the crape myrtles, if it's crape myrtle bark scale, the, probably the best way to do it is to use a systemic drench.
So, you could use imidacloprid.
Read and follow the directions on that.
There are some very specific, because crape myrtles tend to be multi-trunked.
There are specific instructions on how to handle that.
But yeah, you just take it.
Mix it with the correct amount of water.
Put it on the ground.
The tree takes it up through the roots.
It goes through the whole tree.
When they suck the sap, they get the insecticide.
They die.
- That's what we mean by systemic.
Right, okay, good.
- For the aphids, it depends on how big your tree is.
- Yeah, yeah, it really does.
- If it's a maple, if you have a smaller maple that you can actually spray all the way to the top of the tree, you can use a horticultural oil.
- Right.
- Once again, read and follow the directions.
Some of those oils, you can only use certain times of year.
They will damage the tree if you use it at the wrong time or in the wrong conditions.
- That's good.
- But, those will coat the aphids with oil, and it will kill them.
If it is too tall of a tree, once again, you can go with a systemic drench, like imidacloprid, and that, once again, they suck it.
They get the insecticide.
They die.
- Yep, all right.
That was good.
- Yeah.
- So, Joseph, is there anything you want to add to that?
- You know, to help with the sooty mold, and some of the insect issues, you can go in and kinda thin the tree out a little bit.
Do a little pruning.
Let a little bit more sunlight get in there, and a little bit more air to get in there.
- Okay.
- And you can do that for both the crape myrtle and the maples.
- Right.
- And that'll help.
- Yeah, Mother Nature will help you out a little bit.
- It will.
- You know, with the sooty mold.
You just have to be patient over time, so... - Yeah.
- Yeah, whether they're scales or aphids, I mean, we have our control options for sure.
- Now, for the sooty mold itself, - Yeah.
- That's harder, if it's on the plant, that's harder to get rid off.
- Oh, it's gonna be hard.
- So just let... - Mother Nature might help you.
- Yeah, just let it die because it won't have food anymore.
And it'll eventually slough off.
- Yep.
- It may take a couple years.
- It may.
- If you have, you know, if you have sidewalks underneath it or whatever, you're gonna see the sooty mold there.
You can just pressure wash it, that's fine.
But, you can't really scrub the bark too much or you're gonna damage the tree.
- Yeah, you definitely don't wanna do that because, yeah, the tree becomes more susceptible to... you know, borers and other insect pests.
So, it's a good point.
[upbeat country music] "What is this yellow stuff growing on my Japanese maple?"
And this is Peggy, and Ms. Peggy, thank you for the picture.
So, what is that yellow stuff?
- Well, it's some kind of fungal disease - Yeah, I know.
- On the tree.
And you know, one thing that's interesting to me from the picture is that that particular branch, even though it's fairly large, - Yeah, it's large, yeah.
- Is kinda coming up and around and crossing over another branch.
And I can't help but wonder if maybe on the backside where we can't see, it's touching it and maybe girdling itself just slightly.
And maybe, that's what's caused, you know, some of the problems with the disease entering that particular branch.
And I would ask, we can't see on the picture, but is the foliage on that plant doing okay on that section?
If not, maybe you can cut the whole branch section out.
- Right.
- It would get rid of the diseased part, and it still wouldn't make it look bad because the rest of the tree is multi-trunked.
It looks pretty good.
- Yeah, that's right.
Exactly, that's what I noticed on the picture too.
Yeah, it's funny how our eyes go there, right.
- Yeah.
- We're looking at it.
It looks like it's wrapping around.
- Yeah.
- Yeah, so, I would, I would have removed that a long time ago.
- Yeah, I would have too.
- But yeah, no, this is definitely a time to, you know, remove it because, yeah, there's nothing you're gonna be able to spray or anything like that.
So, I would cut it out.
- 'Cause it's rotting.
- Or prune it out, yeah, it's rotting.
- It's, the whole branch is rotting, so... - I would.
- Just remove it.
- I would remove it.
- And... - And examine the rest of the tree to make sure it's doing fine.
- Yeah, give it some fertilizer this spring.
- Yeah, that's what I would do.
[upbeat country music] "Do gardenia bushes go dormant?
Mine seem to, but they never come back."
And this is Pamela from Spokane, Washington on YouTube.
- Oh.
- So, Joellen... - Yeah.
- The old gardenia bush, you know a bit about that, don't you?
- Yes, my parents loved gardenias.
And I'm afraid she's gonna have to do, like, we are a Zone 7 here.
- Yeah.
- And Spokane, Washington is 6b.
So, that's about the upper limit of what the cold, hardy gardenias will live in.
But, they are not deciduous.
So, they are considered evergreen shrubs.
So, when they lose leaves, the thought of them coming back is not good.
- Right.
- Even we have, I've planted some, and we had some extra cold winters and... - Yes, we had... - They, they died.
And they tried to come back from the roots, or from the, some of the top shoots that were protected, but they did not look the same.
And they're just gonna have to do like my parents did.
My mother loved gardenias, and she was living in the South.
Now she thought she could go ahead and have them.
And they died every winter down, and come back and be beautiful green and bushes, and then they'd die down and come back, and they'd be beautiful green bushes, and they never bloomed.
Found out that they like to bloom on the second year of growth.
So, she was only getting first year.
So, they dug 'em up, put 'em into pots, and they rolled 'em in and outside during the winter to keep them safe.
And they did bloom beautifully.
- Wow.
Yes, that's probably what you have to do.
You have anything you want to add to that, Joseph?
- No, I thought Joellen covered everything.
Just, you know, if you wanted to, to keep it growing good, you'll probably have to bring it in.
- Yeah, 'cause we're definitely at the edge here, you know, I know she's in Spokane, but yeah.
- Yeah, that's even... - Yeah, 6b, 7, yeah.
- Yeah.
- The temperature is what?
Zero to five, I think that's what that is.
Yeah, so if they're not covered up.
- Yeah.
- Yeah.
- It's gonna be tough.
- And then she might experiment, and she might take some straw and, you know, really try to cover it up and protect it, and see if that even helps, but I, I don't know.
[upbeat country music] - "I can't get Captan anymore.
What should I use to replace it for my fruit trees?"
And this is Stephen.
He said he has "heard it is no longer legal."
So, let's talk about this first, Joseph.
- Mm-hmm.
- Can't get Captan anymore.
What can he do to replace it?
- To replace it?
- What can he use to replace it?
- Well, you know, any good copper-based fungicide, like a copper sulfate, copper hydroxide.
They're really good products, and they're readily available.
- Yeah.
- You can get 'em just about anywhere.
- Yeah, I mean, they're found in some other products.
It's something that we do recommend, UT Extension.
- Yeah.
- You know, of using Captan and some of your orchard sprays, fruit tree sprays, things like that.
- Fruit tree sprays.
Yeah, that has it.
- Yeah, it has it in there.
Specifically, some of the products you can use to replace Captan though, you mentioned though, you know, the copper hydroxides, right.
So, there's also a couple more though.
I mean, there's Ziram, which you can use I know, and it's safe for fruit trees, you know, apple scab, peach leaf curl, black rot on grapes, you know, control those.
But, you can also use myclobutanil.
So, myclobutanil controls those same diseases.
Right, so those are some that you can use to replace, you know, the Captan, if you like, all right.
So, let's address this one, Peter, though.
He said that he has heard it's no longer legal.
- Okay.
- Okay.
So, what have you found out about that?
- Well, that's not true.
It is legal.
In 2024, and into 2025, the EPA is doing its regular review of Captan.
- Right.
- That's something it does every 15 years for all of the garden products, chemicals that we use.
So, nothing new.
But, it reviews, it's in the process of being reviewed.
Doesn't mean it's illegal.
- Right.
- Doesn't mean that it's gonna be approved either.
But, probably it will be 'cause it is a critical fungicide for fruit production.
- No doubt, for sure, okay.
- Both at home and commercially.
- Right, that's right.
- So, I did a search.
The places, there are some places that don't have it anymore.
It says sold out.
There are some places that have very limited supplies.
But, if you look on, I did a Google search for it, and it's there, just you know, you're gonna have to buy it from a, a smaller company, you know, Amazon is, doesn't have it, really.
- Right, right, right.
- So, or it's very expensive.
So yeah, just do your, yeah, do a Google search and look, and you can find it.
It's there.
- It is there.
It is definitely there.
Yeah, you can check with your local Extension Office.
They may know where you can get a supply, you know, of Captan, but it is definitely a product that is used in fruit production, right, 'cause it attacks the fungus, you know, of course, you know, of those fruits, and doesn't allow, you know, it to continue its life cycle and such, but yeah, it's definitely something that we recommend, you know, for sure.
It's a part of any fruit tree spray schedule.
- It is, right.
- So, read and follow the label.
I think you'll be good.
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I'm Chris Cooper.
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