- Hi, thanks for joining us for The Family Plot: Gardening in The Mid-South.

I'm Chris Cooper.

Drip irrigation keeps your plants watered even when you can't go outside.

That's just ahead on The Family Plot: Gardening in the Mid-South.

- (female announcer) Production funding for The Family Plot: Gardening in the Mid-South is provided by the WKNO Production Fund, the WKNO Endowment Fund, and by viewers like you, thank you.

[upbeat country music] - Welcome to the Family Plot.

I'm Chris Cooper.

Joining me today is Celeste Scott.

Celeste is a horticulture specialist with UT Extension.

How's it going, Celeste?

- Good, how are you Chris?

- I'm good.

It's always good to have you with us.

- Thank you, thank you.

- All right.

- I'm glad y'all could come out here and visit me today.

- Yes!

So where are we?

- We are at the UT Gardens here in Jackson, located at the West Tennessee AgResearch and Education Center, and we are currently standing in a research trial plot.

- Okay.

- We are trying out some production methods and cultivar comparisons for production cut-flower growers in Tennessee.

- Wow.

- So, we're excited about this.

It's an applied research plot, so really trying to take in some practical use skills and help our growers learn from 'em.

- Wow, that is good.

So let's help the growers out, right?

And those gardeners as well.

So let's talk a little bit about drip irrigation.

Let's start with this, what is drip irrigation?

- What is drip irrigation?

That's a good question.

So drip irrigation could mean a lot of different things depending on what type of use you're applying it to, right?

We've got a number of different tapes that could be utilized.

Polytubes, microtubing, emitters, there's all these- - Right.

- You know, different vocabulary to become familiar with.

- Right.

- And they all have their place for different purposes.

- Okay.

- But today, I wanna share a drip tape layout with you all today, and talk about some of the pros and cons of it.

So with this drip tape system that we're utilizing, it's best used for medium to large spaces that have nice, long continuous rows.

- All right.

- So if you've got bins, the one we're showing today wouldn't really be great for, like, a landscape type setting.

- Ah, gotcha.

- Right?

- Okay.

- So we can do drip irrigation in landscapes, but we're gonna use a different setup, a different style than what we're talking about today.

- Okay.

- But for the drip tape, we've got some products here that I'll be able to show you and kinda educate you on what the pieces mean and all of the different fittings, but you can kinda see the start to our system here.

- Yeah.

Yeah, I see it.

- So we've got our main line coming in from the hydrant right here.

- Okay.

- We've got an elbow- - All right.

- Where we turn that polytube.

- Okay.

- And then we're running it all along this main heading of our planting.

This is where all of our drip tapes are gonna be connected, and I call this the header line.

- The header line, all right.

- Okay, so the main line comes from the hydrant to your planting area.

- Okay.

- And then this is my header line, and you could have numerous header lines.

We could continue that supply line down to the planting, and put in as many of those as we needed to.

- Okay.

- I have two in this planting, and we're just gonna look at this one today.

So then once we come down our header line, you'll see where we've plugged in our drip tape connectors, essentially.

- Okay.

- And these can look a lot of different ways.

So the particular ones I'm using here have valves where I can turn them on and off.

- So you can turn them on.

Okay.

- So that's really helpful, especially if you've got some dry zones in your irrigation, or certain plants that need more water than others.

- Okay.

- You can shut off everything else and leave the plants that need more water, you could leave those on or vice versa.

And it's also handy if you are delivering a fertilizer through these irrigation.

- Oh, okay, yeah.

I was thinking about that.

- That's called fertigation.

- Right, right, that's good.

- So maybe you wanna fertilize certain areas and not fertilize others.

- Okay, that's good.

- So that's why I included these valves, but you don't have to have these valves.

- Yeah, okay.

- And we'll look at some of those here in a minute.

- Okay.

- So you'll see we use those connectors to plug into this header line.

We've attached the drip tape to that header line.

And then these are pulled taut all the way down this planting area.

So this run is about 120 feet long.

- Wow.

- And I like to always test out your irrigation before you put- - I think it's smart to do that.

- Yeah.

Before you put down this landscape fabric.

So, you know, landscape fabric isn't a necessity for drip tape situations, but it does provide some benefit.

- Okay.

- So I'm obviously using it primarily for weed control, - Mm-hmm.

- But as far as irrigation goes, it helps reduce evaporation- - Got it.

- From the surface and maintain moisture in that root zone longer.

- Right, which is important for your plants.

- So they don't have to water as frequently.

So, definitely, these two work well together, and the tape does go under the fabric.

- Under the fabric.

- If you're using them together, so it needs- - Yes!

- To go under the fabric.

- Under the fabric.

- So we wanna pull those tight, we wanna test 'em to make sure all the plumbing is working properly, and then you can pull your fabrics.

- Just pull it up.

- Yeah, pull your fabrics over 'em.

And another thing I really like about 'em, you know, some people will tack these down along that planting area, but I like to leave mine untacked.

- Okay.

- So I can reach under here and pull them from side to side, right?

- Ah, gotcha.

- So if I see a dry zone where my cutouts aren't getting moist, I can see a little dry zone right there.

- Yeah.

- I could pull the tape over in that direction a little more.

And increase.

- That's good, all right.

- Increase even wetness.

- Okay.

- So- - So let me ask you this, is this a one person job?

- No.

[laughs] It could be a one person job.

It's hard when you do it alone.

I would say if you can have one person or two people with you, - It would help.

- Yeah, it would help.

[Chris laughs] Yeah.

- It's a lot of work.

- It is.

Yeah, it is.

Okay, so let's look at some of the pieces that we can use to put this puzzle together.

- All right.

- So there are different sized mainline tubings, the one that I, you know, showed you coming down here.

So this is a three quarter-inch tubing, polytubing.

This is half-inch tubing.

- Okay.

- And it doesn't sound like a big difference, but when you look at the diameter of those hoses, - That's a big a difference.

- That is a big difference.

So it depends on your area that you're trying to irrigate.

- Okay.

- If you have a really large space, like I have here, this is 20 by 240 feet, - That's long.

- So I wanna make sure that we're delivering the proper volume of water.

So I'm using a three quarter-inch polytube.

- Yeah, that makes sense for that, okay.

- For a smaller home garden setting, maybe you're using this in a vegetable garden, or a home-cut flower garden where you've got some nice rows, [Chris laughs] maybe you wanna use this half line.

- Right.

- I mean, this half-inch tube right here.

- Right.

- So just know that those are two different things- - Okay.

- Available on the market.

So then I wanna talk a little bit about some of the fittings that go along with these.

So to build your mainline tube, to make your header, I know we showed you some down on the ground, you're probably gonna wanna employ some of these connectors.

- Mm-hmm.

- So this is an elbow.

- Okay.

- This is a T - Elbow, all right.

- And I wanna show you kinda how a couple little tricks that I use to connect these.

- Oh, we like tricks.

- Yes, so this one you'll see is made to fit a half-inch tubing line.

- Got it, okay.

- So that's what I'm gonna use.

- Okay.

- Sometimes it's kinda hard to get this loosened up.

So I like to take a lighter.

- I wondered what the lighter was for.

- Yeah, there's a wind out here, suddenly.

And you just kinda heat that up.

[lighter clicking] - Yeah, there we go.

- Only takes a couple seconds.

There we go.

You blocked the wind for me.

Thank you.

- Okay.

- Okay, so it only takes a couple seconds, and then we're just gonna... - Look at that, look at that.

Okay.

- It goes on like a jewel, but if you hadn't used that, it would've been a lot more difficult.

- Yeah.

- So once you get it pushed onto those barbs, then this is called a lock tight nut.

You tighten down this lock tight nut just like this.

- Ah.

- As tight as you can go, and then we don't get leaks.

- Ah, look at that, and you got it pretty tight.

- Yeah.

Okay, all right, all right.

- Yeah!

So, that's how we get started, anyway, when we're trying to build that mainline to get out to our header line - Right.

Got it, got it.

- Once we get to our header line, I'm gonna show you how we can plug our connectors in, okay?

[Chris chuckling] So this is that three quarters tube, - Okay.

- Just like I'm using here in my plot.

And the barbs right here, you can tell are bigger than, say for instance, the barbs over here.

So you've gotta be careful and know that you're getting the right diameter barb, okay?

- Okay.

- Got it.

- So, I like to use this commercial hole puncher.

So you don't wear your hands out.

You're gonna go ahead and get our entrance holes started for us.

- Okay.

- It's pretty easy.

You just slide this in the channel and punch that through.

Waller it out a little bit.

[Chris chuckles] Make that hole a little bigger.

- Yeah.

- And then you're ready to go.

- Okay.

- So I still like to use the little heat trick.

Loosen that.

Yeah, I got it.

Loosen that polytube up just a little bit to kind of help you get this barb in.

Don't worry if it looks like you're getting a bend in the tube.

All right!

- Yeah, it's in there.

- So we've got that barb in there.

You give it a little tug.

You see it's in there nice and tight.

And we are ready to continue building off of that.

- Goodie goodie.

- So now, we're gonna take our drip tape.

- Okay.

- And connect it to this connector right here.

So I do wanna mention that the perforations for the drip tape are in between these blue lines here on top.

Depending on what brand you get, these could be white, they could be green.

- Okay.

- Just know that, you know, the perforations are marked by these colored lines.

- All right.

- And we wanna make sure that the perforations are laid facing upwards when you lay your tape.

- Up.

- If you lay them down against the soil, those little holes can get plugged by dirt.

- Aha.

- And then you're not gonna get- Yeah, you're not gonna get even moisture.

So we wanna make sure that we lay with the perforations facing up.

- Got it, that's good.

- Okay?

All right, so when we're getting ready to attach these, we wanna make sure that we start with a nice clean cut.

- Okay.

- This end is not clean.

We wouldn't wanna use that end, yeah.

So make sure we're starting with a clean cut, and then we wanna stretch this tape just a little bit.

- Okay.

- To help us really get it on that barb.

So I like to take my littlest finger.

[Chris chuckles] Ring finger.

- So these are all the little tricks, right?

- These are our tricks.

And you just kinda tuck it in and then pull.

- Wow, okay.

- So you're just stretching it just ever so slightly.

- All right.

- Okay, then I like to open it up a little bit.

- Okay.

[laughs] - Okay?

- Ever so slightly?

- Ever so slightly.

And then it's going to just slide right on to that barb.

- And it did.

- And it did.

- And it did!

- But if you hadn't done that, you would've struggled and struggled.

- I probably would've struggled with that.

- It would've taken a while.

Okay.

So now, we've gotta tighten down this lock nut.

- Okay.

- But you've gotta be careful, because as you begin to tighten it, see how the tape will turn.

- I see that.

Mm-hmm.

- And we don't want that, because we want those holes to stay vertical.

- Yeah.

- Stay facing up.

- Got it.

- So you gotta kinda have a finesse.

I like to hold on.

See, the barb is still right here.

That's where the barb is.

- Okay.

- So I put my fingertips on the barb, and hold the tape in place, and then tighten the lock nut with my other hand, okay?

- Ah.

- Get it as tight as you can.

- All right.

- And then you're set up.

- Okay.

- And you just continue on- - Just continue, okay.

- Adding connectors for however many lines you need- - Okay.

- To adequately irrigate, you know, the width of whatever your row is.

I'm using three, and my rows are four feet wide, and I'm getting good moisture with that.

And now, if we pretend like we've gone all the way down to the end of the line.

- Okay.

- And it's time to plug this up, right?

We don't want water just spewing out the end of the line.

- Right.

- We've gotta create an end block right there.

We're gonna use this little end cap.

It's the same concept.

Stick my little finger in.

[Chris chuckling] - Stick your finger in there, all right.

- Kind of loosen it up - Ever so slightly, okay.

- Ever so slightly.

You don't wanna use heat on the polytape.

That's important.

Only use, oh, it's a vinyl tape.

Don't use heat on the drip tape.

Only use heat on that polytubing.

- Okay, got it.

- Okay, so it slides on there real easily.

Tighten that lock nut down.

And I like the ones that come with this little loop, because then I can put a staple in it, and anchor it.

- Oh, yeah, to the ground.

Got it.

- And that way, the tube isn't, like, wiggling around too much- - Got it.

- While the water's going.

- Got it - Okay?

- Okay.

- So that is a short version on how to assemble the pieces that you would need to have- - Wow.

- A drip irrigation system at home.

- That is pretty good.

So let me ask you just one question, right?

Where can a homeowner find all of these pieces for the drip irrigation system?

- That's a good question.

That's a good question.

- Okay.

- So we can order online.

There are some home garden kits that actually are pretty good.

They're matching up the dimensions for you.

- Yeah.

- So you don't have to be worry if you're getting- - Oh, that's so good.

- The wrong size fittings to fit the right size tubing.

- Yeah.

- They're gonna match that all up for you.

- Okay.

- And it's usually gonna be based on space.

How much space are you irrigating?

So, really, any of those home garden kits are gonna be adequate.

- Okay.

- Or you know, if you get really confident, and you wanna have something super custom, - Confident, right.

- You can certainly order it piece by piece.

- Piece by piece.

- And sometimes, you can get a little cheaper that way.

So it's good to experiment.

I would suggest that whichever route you go that you buy a few extra fittings for, you know, if something happens.

- Okay, I gotcha.

- So for example, I had a drip tape that had too much pressure behind it from the faucet, and it sprouted a leak.

And I had to cut the leak out.

- Okay.

- And then, so this is a coupler.

- Okay.

- And I didn't have one that wasn't already hooked up to show y'all, but, so it's got the barbed nipple on both sides - Yeah, okay.

- And you just slide that tape right on, tighten it down, and now you've fixed your leak.

- Got it, got it.

- If it's a small leak, like maybe it's just a nick on the side, I had some voles one day that had done just a tiny bit- - All right.

- Of nibbling on the side.

- Okay.

- You can fix small tears with electrical tape.

- Of course you can, yeah.

- But it only works if the tape is dry.

- Ah, and not wet.

- So you run the irrigation, you find out there's a leak, then you have to turn off the irrigation, and let the whole thing dry so you can repair it with your electrical tape.

- All right.

- But certainly, make sure you have a couple extra pieces on hand just to help you, you know, deal with those situations.

- Make sense.

- Another piece of the puzzle- - Okay.

- That I failed to mention.

- Okay, let's do that.

- I'm gonna go just like we had to have a plug on the end of the drip tape.

- Okay.

- We need to have a plug on the end of the header line.

- Oh, okay.

- So, well, here, I'll do it on this one so everybody can see.

So this is our header line.

This is where you attached our drip.

There's our plug for our drip.

We need a plug for our header line.

So we're gonna use a device like this.

Okay?

And again, use our trick with heat, - Ah, it's the heat.

- Heat that up just a tad bit.

This fitting's gonna slide right on there.

- Right on it, yeah.

- Tighten down that lock nut, and you're gonna be ready to go.

- So Celeste, how do we get water to our header hose?

- That's a good question.

We've talked about how to set up in the field.

Now we need to talk about setting up at the hydrant.

- So we're at the hose.

What's next?

- Okay, so this is what comes next.

We've got options.

- Okay?

- Options, yeah.

- In this case I wanted to start with a Y because I wanted to have a one of those Ys that leads to my irrigation, my drip line irrigation.

- Okay.

- But I also wanted to be able to have a water hose that I can fill up buckets or do other watering activities with.

Right?

- Smart.

- So if you feel like you're gonna need your hydrant to be serving multiple purposes, you're gonna wanna start with a Y or a splitter of some sort, okay?

- Okay, smart.

I like that.

- So let's start with a splitter.

Then next preference is a timer.

If you would like to preprogram your irrigation or your fertilizers, then next in line would come your timer.

Okay?

- Okay.

After the timer, what we have here is a strainer and a backflow preventer.

- Okay.

- And you don't necessarily need a backflow preventer if you're not using some kind of inline fertigation.

- Okay.

- Okay, so what we're doing is trying just to protect the water source.

We don't want anything going backwards in the line whenever things get turned off and there's still pressure in the drip line, right?

- Makes sense.

- So it's naturally gonna push back towards the origin.

- Okay, that makes sense.

- So we've got a strainer and a backflow preventer.

The next thing in line is a pressure regulator.

So you may or may not need a pressure regulator, but I'm gonna say, in most cases, you will.

This hydrant has very strong water pressure because it's ran off of a city water source.

- Oh, okay.

- So city waters, county waters oftentimes have pretty high pressure.

- I gotcha.

- Well waters tend to have less pressure attached to their sources.

- Okay, gotcha.

- So you may need that so that you don't blow out your drip tapes.

- Okay.

- Okay?

And depending on what thickness drip tape you get, it's gonna have a pressure rating, and it's gonna say you can't go over 30 PSI, you can't go over 50 PSI.

- Oh, that's good to have- - Right.

- That's good to know!

- And so that's gonna help you know what type of pressure regulator to put in there, and then you attach your main line, and if you're not doing any kinda fertilizing, that's all you have to do.

This line would go directly, you know, you plumb it out to wherever your planting area is.

- Mm-hmm.

- You start attaching your drip tape.

In my situation, I'm connected up to a commercial, well, an industrial-type fertilizer injector.

- Okay.

- And I put my soluble fertilizer in this bucket, and this suction hose takes it up, and this meters it into my mainline hose, which comes out on your side.

- Got it.

- For home gardeners, they may find this is gonna be more the size of what a home gardener might have if you're wanting to do some kind of inline fertigation.

They mix the water soluble in here, they attach it to their line.

Wherever you purchase this, it's gonna have a connector kit that comes with it.

- Mm-hmm.

- So don't worry about not having the right size connectors, because it's gonna come with that kit to connect it to your mainline hose.

Okay?

- Celeste, let's define something real quick for the homeowners.

- Yeah.

- Water soluble.

- Water soluble.

- What do you mean by that?

- That is the fertilizer that you can mix in water and it dissolves.

- Okay.

- And then you deliver that fertilizer to the plants via the water.

- Got it.

- That make sense?

- Good.

That's good.

- So, it looks like we have a lot of things going on here, but the important thing is to remember, the general order, okay?

So you've got water source, timer, backflow and strainer, pressure regulator, mainline, okay?

- I think that's good.

- All right.

- All right.

- Thank you, Celeste.

We appreciate that.

- I've had fun talking about drip.

- This has been fun.

I appreciate it so much.

- All right, let's do it again.

- All right, all right.

[upbeat country music] - Hey, I wanna talk to y'all a little bit about how to get more blooms from your summer annuals, and it's using a technique called pinching or heading off.

So what I have right here is a cosmos, and you can see I've got some behind me and in front of me.

These taller cosmos were planted about three weeks before these little guys were.

So these were started from seeds as transplants, and then we transplanted 'em out into the garden about three weeks ago.

They haven't gotten a lot of growth on 'em yet, but it's time to do our pinching so that we can ensure that we get more branching from this primary stem.

So if I allowed this plant to grow without pinching, it would eventually begin to branch on its own, but it would take a lot longer to get those additional branches.

So we're just trying to speed up the process a little bit by sacrificing the first cut to promote branching so that we can get sequential cuts, okay?

So, you can see here the ones behind me have been pinched.

They were pinched about 10 days after they were planted.

And then you can see some significant branching three to four weeks after that happened.

So I'm gonna show y'all how to do that today.

So what you wanna do is identify your nodes, and a node is where leaves grow out of the main stem.

So there's a node here, we see another node right here, we see a node here, and it goes on up the plant.

So in this particular situation, I wanna leave about two to three healthy nodes, and I'm gonna count up three.

One, two, three.

I'm gonna make my cut right above the node, and I'm gonna take out this top part of the plant, okay?

So we're removing this to encourage branching from where we made the cut.

I can already see two side branches that are starting to grow from that node.

Can see one here, one there.

We're gonna get two here, we're gonna get two at this node, we're gonna get two at that node.

So now I went from one primary stem, and then, potentially, some branching later in the season to six primary stems.

All from making one cut.

[upbeat country music] - All right, here's our Q&A segment, y'all ready?

- I'm ready.

- These are some great questions, y'all ready?

- Yes.

- All right, let's get into it.

Here's our first viewer email.

"Can you tell me the name of this shrub?

It blooms in the spring."

So Jason, can you help us out with that?

- So that's Deutzia.

- Deutzia.

- Deutzia is an old-fashioned kind of pass along shrub.

Grows in similar habit to mock orange, the big-old fashioned ones.

I mean, they can get 10 feet tall, kinda vase-shaped, and not real common until recent years kinda coming back around, they've bred them to be more compact.

There's a cultivar called Chardonnay Pearls.

It has gold foliage, it's much, much smaller.

There's the Yuki series that's really compact, but the one in the picture, I'm pretty sure is one of the old-fashioned ones.

And again, mostly a pass along plant, blooms early in the spring.

Just a cool, tough, very drought-tolerant plant.

So a neat plant to pass along with to your friends - It's beautiful.

- And neighbors.

Yes.

- So what are conditions?

Full sun, part shade, or- - Yeah, well, it'll grow in full sun or part shade, And again, very drought tolerant and really disease and insect-resistant.

So a tough plant.

- Wow, so that's what you need.

- Deutzia.

I love saying that word.

- Deutzia.

Yeah, I think it's a cool word.

All right, so thank you for that question.

Here's our next viewer email.

This is interesting, right?

"Does fish emulsion go bad?"

Ah, what y'all- - Ah, it's bad to begin with.

- Yeah, it smells bad.

[everyone laughing] - It smells bad.

We know that.

- Ah, for sure.

- So I actually had to do a little research on that.

And fish emulsion, as long as it's kept in a stable storage area, it is going to last indefinitely.

[laughs] - You say indefinitely.

So probably a dark cool area, maybe?

- Yes, dark- - So not freezing and thawing - Cool, no freeze.

- Yeah, cool.

- Yes.

Certainly don't wanna have that rotating over and over.

And you know, - Yeah.

- The majority of our liquid products, really, fertilizer or pesticide, you know, type products are going to have pretty long shelf life.

- Yeah.

- If they're stored properly.

- If they're stored properly.

- Yeah.

- That's the key, if it's stored properly.

- Yeah.

I think that'll work.

- You know, I think a good rule of thumb, if you're comfortable, those products are gonna be comfortable, too.

- That's right.

- So kinda keep that in mind.

- Yeah, yeah.

- Climate controlled.

- So, like, if you have it in your, you know, like my garage, I keep a lot of products in my garage.

- Yeah, so do I.

- It doesn't freeze in there, because, you know, it's insulated.

So I know it's not freezing, but it's also not temperature controlled.

- That's right.

- So I mean, you know, - That's right.

- You don't have to keep them in your house, because some of 'em have smells, but yeah.

The in, yes.

Just kinda bringing down that fluctuation.

- All right, yeah I agree it smells bad enough.

[everyone laughs] That's for sure.

All right, thank you for that question.

Here's our next viewer email.

"This year, my daylilies "developed a rusty color on the foliage "along with thin white lines.

How do I prevent this?"

And this is Theresa from DeSoto County, Mississippi.

So what do you think about that?

- So after looking at the photos she sent, that was a good photo.

- Yeah, it was.

- That's really pretty much the natural state of a daylily this time of year, it's senescing.

So once daylilies are actually while they're putting up their scapes, their flowers, they're robbing energy from the foliage, and they are beginning to actually start that process while they're flowering.

And then when they finish flowering, that foliage is pretty much done.

So you can actually cut all that off and start all over.

So daylily growers, or even myself, I've cut all mine off, and I have new foliage coming out.

So a lot of that is just natural senescing.

The white on there where she mentions in the email- - Yeah.

- Was a leafminer.

And leafminer really does very little damage.

It's really more of a cosmetic and I wouldn't worry about that.

Now there is daylily rust, and it is very apparent.

It's raised up, and you can rub it, and you can get that rusty color on your finger.

- And there's pustules.

- Yes, absolutely.

- Yeah.

- And it's very distinct, and if you have that, that's a whole 'nother issue, But that's rare- - And that's not what- That's not what that picture is, - That was not in that picture.

- And that's kinda rare to have that in Tennessee, or beyond Tennessee.

It blows in or if you buy daylily from the south, you can get it.

It's not real common to have daylily rust here.

But if you do have that, that's something you would want to consider taking control of, and there's great information online about that.

- Sure.

- Yeah.

- Sure.

- And so I'll add that those pictures.

Yes, that is the natural state of the daylilies, and as they are going downhill, lots of times, that foliage will contract some fungal pathogens.

- Sure.

- And so that particular one is called leaf streak.

- Yeah.

- But it's not worth controlling, I mean, because that foliage is going downhill.

So you know, if they were to do some research on that and I just wanted them to know that yes, that is a pathogen that does infect that leaf tissue, but it's just a natural part of that.

- Just part of the decay process, yeah.

- All right, so proper sanitation or something.

- Just clean it up.

You know, dispose of that, - Mm-hmm.

- And then you'll have a whole net set of foliage come back after that.

- And I have some daylilies that do it more than others.

- Sure.

- Right?

I mean, so, you know.

Some lose nearly every single bit of their foliage.

- Well, and same about with culture, you know, if one is struggling because of heat and drought, or, you know, the soil's not as good there.

- Yeah.

- It's gonna be more prone to that as well, so.

- Okay.

All right, well there you have it, Theresa.

Thank you for that question.

All right, so Jason, Celeste, this is too much fun.

- Yay, it was fun.

- All right.

- Yeah, it's great.

- Thank y'all much.

All right.

- Thank you.

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